Autumn Winter 2019 Womenswear

This is the sophomore collection for Kiko Kostadinov Womenswear. Designed by Laura and Deanna Fanning as a synergistic counterpart to the menswear line, it focuses on considered pattern-cutting, uniforms and the innovative handcrafts that the Melbourne-born sisters have been developing since graduating from Central Saint Martins in 2018.

Central to the narrative is the concept of a futuristic past – looking at yesterday through the lens of tomorrow. It pays tribute to Central American bandidas and pistoleras, the fearless nineteenth century female outlaws who went up against the establishment. Yet it frames them within an alternate reality inspired by entropic state of affairs in the 1988 film, On the Silver Globe.

Lines appear sharper. Colours appear bolder. Silhouettes appear more exaggerated.

Laura and Deanna created many of the garments with a sister in mind. Whereas one may be imagined in soft touch-me textiles; the other crafted from hyper-futuristic synthetics. Hence many of the materials are mixed and mismatched, striking juxtapositions of opulence and utility. Nylons, lycra and crunchy synthetics are spliced with devoré velvet, knitted metallics and classic tweeds. Outdoor performancewear informs the hyper-panelled garments, which Laura and Deanna imbue with the warmth of traditional patchwork, a symbolic motif of female craft.

Knitwear is key to the collection, reimagined as sculptural forms. One oxblood and mustard sweater is completely knitted from nylon and recycled denim, engineered around the body to create a statuesque silhouette. Elsewhere, chunky-knit capelets are edged in looped fringing and saturated-stripe knits are built with intrinsic scarves for elegantly draping around the neck. Many of the angular, rhizomatic seams are edged with strips of metallic hand knits. It’s all about contrasts and complexity. Many of the female couturiers of the 1930s, laid the foundations for the intricately exquisite pattern-cutting that is seen here. Backs of garments, so often ignored in the age of front-facing selfies, were given extra attention.

The collection also marks the Laura and Deanna’s first collaborations with ASICS on both footwear and performancewear bodysuits. The modern Victoriana lace-up boots are made in collaboration with Camper. The beaded grape brooches are made by the sisters themselves..

Credits

Design and Direction: Laura and Deanna Fanning
Production: Semble
Stylist: Agata Belcen at Artistry
Casting: Henry Thomas at Bryant Artists
Set Design: Thomas Petherick at CLM
Art Direction: Jamie Andrew Reid at Streeters
Hair: Kiyoko Odo at Bryant Artists
Make-up: Nami Y oshida at Bryant Artists
Musical Direction: Paride Calvia
Text: Osman Ahmed
Press: A.I. PR