Autumn Winter 2020 Womenswear

Garments questioning garments. Garments questioning our virtual perception of their physicality.

Designed by Deanna and Laura Fanning, the Kiko Kostadinov Women’s collection for Autumn Winter 2020 is a sartorial study in 1920’s Gestalt theory. Sometimes known as the ‘Law of Simplicity’, this philosophical school of thought suggests a state where human perception of external stimulus is reconciled via the grouping together of known patterns and visual cues. In this case, a series of recurring graphic manipulations are applied to a base of archetypal, quotidian garments – creating a sounding board for new explorations in texture and dimensionality.

A collection of classic or rudimentary items within the contemporary wardrobe are used primarily as a stimulus for questioning their perception. Checkered houndstooth and faux fur forms a frock coat while faux fur imposes itself onto the Fanning’s rendition of an MA jacket. A little black dress becomes a distorted counterpart of its self, making use of midnight faux fur. Traditional smocking techniques, dwarf the idea of a simple slip dress, from it back view nothing seems out of the ordinary. Convex and concave lines wrap themselves around the body, reappearing on the idea of tuxedo trousers imbued with the language of function due to their darted knees. The two dimensional motif of the diamond appears in suiting as knees and darted pocket details.

The interplay between surface and texture peaks with knitwear staples. Pyramids form almost tesseract like parallel striped patterns in oversized v necks and vests. Jacquard tartans undulate with varying yields as column dresses. Pinched suedettes reveal themselves as base layers, lending themselves to tartan suiting.

The dominating graphic on set sign posts a void, a visual cue to the Fanning’s sartorial study. Identifiably vortex like, these graphics are appropriated into a collaboration with the bag brand Medea by twin sisters Camilla and Giulia Venturini. Contrasting leathers in nappa, suede and croc lend themselves as canvases for the vortex motif.

This is the Fanning’s fourth season of a collaboration with ASICS on footwear. Metallic forest and gold present a near vacuum packed look, shifting the Fanning’s prior use of contrasting sports meshes and panels. However what appears minimal in the trainer’s upper is contrasted by their multicoloured gel and rubber soles.

Credits

Design and Direction: Laura and Deanna Fanning
Production: Semble
Stylist: Agata Belcen at Management + Artists
Casting: Henry Thomas at Bryant Artists
Set Design: Thomas Petherick at Streeters
Hair: Kiyoko Odo at Bryant Artists
Make-up: Nami Yoshida at Bryant Artists
Musical Direction: Paride Calvia
Text: Dan Thawley
Press: A.I. PR