Autumn Winter 2022 Womenswear

Designed by Laura and Deanna Fanning, the Kiko Kostadinov Autumn Winter 2022 Womenswear collection takes a soft power approach to the feminine binary, as the saccharine sweetness of youth is brought into sharp relief against an undercurrent of dark glamour. Surveying modes of dress – from folkloric tradition to 1930s high society and elements of the Art Deco movement – silhouettes explore materiality, modularity and gravity. Signature chromatic studies produce a spectrum of tone and contrast, from candy pastels to stony neutrals against black and bright white.

Exemplifying the 360° construction of both tailoring and flou, tension and asymmetry arise in playful games of weight and superposition. Dresses twist and turn in matte satin and crepe, flared trousers are cut in sartorial fabrics with peeling pockets and wrapped waistbands, and draped skirts are laced with a sash hemline or hitched up by snake-chain jewellery. Brushed mohair paisley is abstracted into wrapped animalia, argyle is mixed with rib, and swathes of plush teddy ‘fur’ frame metallized geometric jacquard.

Shimmer and shine enter the brand vernacular, as enveloping coats and wide lapel jackets are striated with glittering stripes, the Trivia bag returns in varnished glitter finishes, and opera gloves with mismatched fingers are knitted in fizzy tinsel wool. Opalescent beads are sheathed within jersey or punctuate crepe, in conversation with Murano glass chokers and suspended sautoirs. Squares, triangles and circles collapse into soft new bags that rotate on a wishbone hinge, whilst an aggressive girliness is expressed in appliqué cotton bubble skirts and hybrid shoes and boots trimmed with teensy bows.

Credits

Design and Direction: Laura and Deanna Fanning
Casting: Henry Thomas at Bryant Artists
Hair: Ana Takahashi
Make-up: Aya Kuraoka
Set Design: Josh James Studio
Movement Direction: Ryan Chappell
Musical Direction: E–Saggila / PAN
Text: Dan Thawley
Press: A.I. PR