Spring Summer 2020 Womenswear

A pair of column sculptures by the British artist Rosie Grace Ward stand sentinel over the third Kiko Kostadinov womenswear presentation designed by Deanna and Laura Fanning for Spring Summer 2020, their lustrous aluminium surface punctuated by incisive curved cuts laid over steel mesh. Somewhere between licking flames and organic talismans, they preface a precise, graphic collection imbued with obsessive studies of the circle.

Taking a near-topographic approach to patternmaking, the Fanning sisters manipulate existing archetypes with new research in construction, texture, palette and drape for hybrid garments that fuse athletic and classical connota­tions with folkloric spirituality. The circle - a perfect, organic and finite form - becomes a celestial leitmotif across cut-and-sew garments, unfolding as a spiral on striped jersey dresses or cut-out on tops as a clavicle keyhole exposing Ward's pewter totems laced on leather. Op-Art effects abound as deconstructed sport jerseys, twisted leg trousers and zip jackets are reimagined in two-tone fabrications of compressed mesh and satin twill, whilst a button-down shirt jacket is shaped with a pointed pagoda shoulder. Fully-fashioned knitwear elements comprise of knotted, ribbed and pin-tucked panelling to create swirling cardigan shapes and subversive twinsets. Throughout, colours oscillate between solid brights and sinister pastels: from turmeric to chestnut, teal, turquoise, emerald, apricot and powder blue.

In collaboration with ASICS, shoes and performance apparel provoke new dialogues between ultralight sports textiles and an architectural silhouette. Polo shirt and tennis skirt shapes join the continuous evolution of footwear shapes that appropriate archival basketball, tennis and cycling shoes into dynamic crossbreeds that build on Asics Skysensor gel heel technology. Inspired by Bohemia crystal, kitten heels with Camper feature an amorphous silicon toe shield,joining Ward's jewels and crochet leather 'nautilus' pouches: neo-artisanal relics that nod to a mystical future.

Credits

Design and Direction: Laura and Deanna Fanning
Production: Semble
Stylist: Agata Belcen at Management+Artists
Casting: Henry Thomas at Bryant Artists
Hair: Kiyoko Odoat at Bryant Artists
Make-up: Nami Yoshida at Bryant Artists
Musical Direction: Paride Calvia
Text: Dan Thawley
Press: A.I. PR
Thank you: Rosie Grace Ward