Spring Summer 2021 Menswear

Sirokko
00102021

Within the hallowed halls of Strawberry Hill House—a resplendent Gothic Revival home somewhere between London and Heathrow—Kiko Kostadinov posits the Spring Summer 2021 collection in a philosophical conversation with Spanish photographer and director Robi Rodriguez. On film, seven passive protagonists spout a series of mantras written by Rodriguez—dystopian reflections on consumerism that question the surrounding splendour of architect Horace Walpole’s gilded walls, stained glass and checkerboard parquetry.

A fairy tale of reluctant privilege, Kostadinov considers inheritance and pedigree through cloth — juxtaposing the codes of academia and varsity garments against the courtly flair of 18th century dress. These counter-intuitive notions bear fruit: further softening and accentuating the exploration of volume and decoration that jars against the contemporary materiality and palette of sportswear archetypes.

In a tonal palette of rich jewel colours and muted mineral shades, Kostadinov explores pleated, wrinkled and wrapped elements that inflect a new romance. Hemlines erupt with striped linings and ruffles, jackets are darted and spliced in sinuous curves, and jersey capes are trimmed in passementerie. Referencing medieval armour, marquise-shaped embroideries adorn square-toe marquetry boots, jersey tunics and vareuse shapes, as darted breeches turn down into pointed line-quilt cuffs. From spiral leggings to peignoir coats, slanted Henley tees and button-flap collars, two-tone effects abound as striped or inset fabrics trace symmetries and asymmetries throughout.