Spring Summer 2021 Womenswear

The Kiko Kostadinov Spring Summer 2021 Women’s Collection, designed by Laura and Deanna Fanning, evolves the duo’s constant pursuit of shape and material development – a practice deeply entrenched in contemporary and historical research. A 360° postmodern approach to garment engineering is at odds with the innate whimsy of Victorian dress, finding new forms through a 1970’s lens.

Reminiscent of homespun house dresses, shirred and smocked by hand, clothes for breezy domestic summers embrace angles and curves in sage and petrol, chartreuse, chocolate and Pepto Bismol pink. Dissected tailoring gathers and drapes with cutaway collars, snap stud cuffs and intricate bicolour and tricolour panelling. In lustrous organza and checked cotton, ruched column tops and shift dresses ripple with extreme texture.

Punctuating washed gingham and fluid cady, star motifs abound – heraldry evoking deep female magic rooted in Wiccan ritual and the bold graphics of Pop Art. Stars are encrusted in knees and plackets, inspiring pointed collars, hems, and sleeves that trail binding ribbons and encourage interactivity and transformation of the silhouette. Linen-nylon knits raise the star as a 3D texture on wrap-waist sweaters, whilst backless tied rib tops and leggings point towards the season’s indoor pursuits. The curved 'Louis’ heel returns on crystal beaded house slippers, ladylike pearls are obscured in bright resin cube jewellery, and a crochet leather bag is constructed on a 5-point star base.

The Kiko Kostadinov Spring Summer 2021 Women’s Collection is presented as an optic white vortex – models appear isolated, floating on a red felt island recalling the spatial design of German artist Hito Steyerl’s installation The Tower (2015) and featuring the cocooning form of Toshiyuki Kita’s ‘Wink’ chair (1980).

Credits

Design and Direction: Laura and Deanna Fanning
Styling: Agata Belcen at MA + Group
Casting: Henry Thomas at Bryant Artists
Hair: Shiori Takashi at Streeters
Make-up: Anne Sophie Costa at Streeters
Film and Photography: Esther Theaker
Movement Direction: Ryan Chappell
Musical Direction: Paride Calvia
Press: A.I. PR