Spring Summer 2024 Womenswear

The applied creativity of women – as designers, engineers, artists – is an intuitive quest to align emotion and experimentation, often with a hint of revolt. With this in mind, the Kiko Kostadinov Womenswear Spring Summer 2024 collection designed by Laura and Deanna Fanning, writes a new chapter in their ongoing discourse with material and silhouette, provoking historical allusions in the name of innovation. Returning to the revolutionary oeuvres of both Sonia Delaunay and Sonia Rykiel, the collection explores patchwork as a lynchpin for 360° modelage.

With the scintillating iridescence of changeante fabrics, contrast zippers as decoration and delineation, and the shimmer of steel cottons and crinkled pointelle, sensual garments catch and drape both on and off the body. A jolie-laide palette boomerangs from ice pink, sea mist and oyster grey to safety orange, lime and cobalt. Laddered, buttoned and striped, ribbed Italian jerseys and crinkled pointelle knits create optical illusions in cut-out and cut-away tops or swirling trousers. Steel cotton trenches and viscose bombers unzip in arching volumes from the clavicle and shoulder blade. Taped bubble tops and skirts in plissé crépon echo the wrinkles and ruffles of buttoned gilets and drawstring dresses with matching wrapped crossbody bags, their transparency returning in hybrid peasant dresses cut in floral cotton jacquards. In homage to Delaunay, handmade patchwork merino wool knits are tufted with musings on art jewellery manifest orb-like spiked chain necklaces, glass marble collars, spiked resin earrings or wrapped bracelets. Brogue details adorn curved denim trousers, slip-on two-tone sneakers and giant chain handbags in patent and perforated suede.

Credits

Design and Direction: Laura and Deanna Fanning
Production: Petit Ami
Styling: Imruh Asha at Art Partner
Casting: Henry Thomas at Bryant artists
Hair: Olivier Schawalder at Arts and Commerce
Beauty: Siddartha Simone at Streeters
Movement Direction: Ryan Chappell
Musical Direction: Bill Kouligas / PAN
Press: A.I PR / MATT. / Lucien Pages / Gia Kuan Consulting