Spring Summer 2027 Womenswear
The Spring Summer 2027 Kiko Kostadinov Womenswear collection by Laura and Deanna Fanning began with the work of multi-disciplinary artist Nanda Vigo (1936–2020). An under-recognized figure within ZERO, the artist group founded by Heinz Mack, Otto Piene, and Günther Uecker, Vigo’s work treated light not simply as illumination, but as a material in itself.
The designers first encountered Vigo through a 2022 retrospective in Bordeaux and became drawn to her Cronotopo works of the 1960s, constructions in glass, steel, aluminium, and light in which space becomes unstable, perceptual, and continuously in motion. The idea of “cronos-topos,” time-space, became a starting point for thinking about clothing as an architecture that is constantly changing through movement and proximity, exploring how a body alters the space around it.
The collection translates these ideas through yarn and textile interpretations rendered through prismatic forms. “Chronotope” dresses are spun from cotton yarn to give the garment shape and ease, interrupted by translucent nylon through which light can pass. Executed in tonal whites and blues, they shift between opacity and transparency as the wearer moves. The garment becomes less a fixed form than a surface through which the body and space interact.
This play between structure and freedom runs throughout the collection. Triangular shapes are formed in tunics through darts alone, removing seams and allowing printed moiré fabrics to hold a sense of surface tension. Featherweight organza is draped into slip dresses and free-flowing headpieces, responding to the environment. Rectangular coats gather at the back to create generous shoulders and a swing that makes them feel gown-like in motion. Wool crepe and airy linen introduce further degrees of transparency, revealing depth through movement.
Vigo’s own uncompromising style informs a multi-layered perspective, where monotone and colour, opacity and transparency, softness and structure coexist. Made in Japan tailoring acknowledges the architecture of a working woman through sharp shoulders and darted waists, while familiar archetypes of knitwear—cardigans, twin sets, and polo dresses—are reimagined through contrasting intarsias, pleating, lace hole construction, and alternating repeats.
The clothes are not intended to transform the woman into another character, but to reveal different dimensions within her. Identity emerges through accumulation: how she dresses, gestures, occupies space, and carries herself. Pleats introduce rhythm and repetition, with bursts of colour creating moments of brightness within restrained surfaces.
Woven leather pumps, twin-colour stitched loafers grounded by a custom Kiko Kostadinov sole, and geometric Chronotopo sandals extend this language into movement. Completing the proposition: translucent, radiant makeup by beauty brand OMMAGE carries a luminosity reminiscent of the designers’ Australian upbringing.
The show space continues the dialogue with Vigo through Due Più chairs from 1971, produced by Acerbis, Andromeda (1974/2022), and Light-Light (2000), produced for Glas Italia. These works do not function simply as references or historical objects, but as active participants in the space: objects through which light, material, body, and time can be experienced together.
For Vigo, light was a means of transmitting something into the future. Here, that transmission becomes clothing: a shifting architecture carried by the body. The Spring Summer 2027 Kiko Kostadinov woman is not a static figure within space, but rather the driving force within it.
Credits
Collection Design and Direction: Laura and Deanna Fanning
Production: Experiential/H
Casting: Henry Thomas
Movement Direction: Ryan Chappell
Hair: Tomihiro Kono
Make-up: Masaé Ito using OMMAGE
Musical Direction: Bill Kouligas / PAN
Text: Steff Yotka
Communications: lbtissame Bellehouane
