Collection Notes

Designed by Laura and Deanna Fanning, the Kiko Kostadinov collection for Autumn Winter 2021-22 is an ode to the spontaneous élan of the flâneuse – an elusive wanderer perceived from afar in the city streets. There is agency in her imperfect elegance, and purpose to her stride. But how do her clothes, in all their thrifted ennui, fall just so? How does drape incite emotion, or texture, sensuality? In studying such women from afar, an appreciation for the incidental gives rise to gestural acts of decadent femininity.

Tinged with retrofuturism, the collection stems from a continuing obsession with intricate patternmaking, usurping the pedestrian with vortex-like whorls of cloth. A giant rosette falls off a slipdress in crushed satin, and trouser pockets spiral from the hip. The mesmerising op art gradients of wojciech fangor inspire concentric ombré polka dot prints, micro cable knit stripes, and a polychrome palette pulled back with black, camel and pearly grey.

Both modular and hybridized garments blur the bounds of ladylike tailoring and flou, as collared pinwheel bias-cut dresses unpeel with hook and eye, sash volumes twist around blouses and skirt beltloops, and a miniskirt is set into flared trousers. Men’s outerwear is feminized: tiered trenchcoats expose the arms, military jackets are trimmed in dull satin, and plush coats are constructed in an undulating patchwork of eco fur.

The first kiko kostadinov leather handbag appears as a warped hobo shoulder bag in heavy polished leather with saddle stitching and a magnetized flap. Made for city walks, a formal point trainer on a stacked heel features contrasting car shoe tread details and tonal grosgrain trim. Inspired by scandinavian modernism, torqued cuffs, buckles and earrings are dipped in monochrome brights.